5 places I recommend•1 in the Michelin guide
These are the five restaurants and coffee shops in Trieste I have eaten at myself and would recommend.
Where a section has more than one place, they are numbered from my favourite downwards. 
marks the ones not to be missed.
Don't forget you can take the map with you
The bistro at the Grand Hotel Duchi d'Aosta on Piazza Unità d'Italia, named for the Venetian Harry's Bar, serves classic Italian dishes in a relaxed room with a terrace out on the square in summer. By day, it shares its space with Harry's Piccolo, the hotel's two-Michelin-star restaurant, which is screened off for the evening. My favourite meal on my Trieste visit. Really delicious and a beautiful classic place.
Address: Piazza Unità d'Italia 2, 34121 Trieste TS, Italy
A trattoria in San Giovanni, on the edge of the city, which Giovanni Suban opened with his winnings from the Vienna lottery in the second half of the nineteenth century, and which the same family has run ever since. The cooking is Triestine and Karst. The jota, a soup of beans, pork and sauerkraut, is still made to the recipe his great-grandmother used over 150 years ago, and the guests have included Pope John Paul II.
Address: Via Emilio Comici 2, 34128 Trieste TS, Italy
A seafood restaurant on Via del Pane, in the old ghetto lanes just behind Piazza Unità d'Italia, where Luca Morgan cooks the local catch in a warm, traditional room: fritto misto, ricciola with courgette flowers, paccheri with clams and pistachio pesto. The cellar runs to seven hundred-odd labels.
Address: Via del Pane 2, 34121 Trieste TS, Italy
The oldest café in Trieste, opened in 1830 and a meeting place for the Italian national movement in 1848, with Belgian mirrors, painted ceilings and Thonet chairs. James Joyce, Italo Svevo and Umberto Saba were all regulars, and it serves proper meals as well as coffee and cakes. A decent place for lunch or a coffee break.
Address: Piazza Nicolò Tommaseo 4, 34122 Trieste TS, Italy
A little chocolate shop and bar on Via di Cavana in the old town, with wooden shelves of handmade chocolates, cakes, and biscuits. In the colder months, the hot chocolate comes thick and in small cups, spiced with ginger, cinnamon, cardamom, or chilli, with toppings to pick from.
Address: Via di Cavana 15, 34121 Trieste TS, Italy
