11 places I recommend•1 in the Michelin guide
These are the 11 restaurants, bars and tearooms in Osaka I have eaten at myself and would recommend.
Where a section has more than one place, they are numbered from my favourite downwards. 
marks the ones not to be missed.
Don't forget you can take the map with you
An okonomiyaki landmark in the retro Shin-Umeda Shokudogai food alley beside Osaka Station. Kiji's savoury griddled pancakes have drawn devoted crowds for years, and the no-reservations counter is part of the charm. Closed Sundays; expect a queue.
Address: Umeda Sky Building B1F, 1-1-90 Ōyodonaka, Kita Ward, Osaka 531-0076, Japan
A sushi counter on the tenth floor of Miya Plaza in Sonezakishinchi, working mostly a la carte, with red vinegar in the rice and white fish pressed between sheets of kombu. This was probably the best meal we had in Osaka. Really delicious and extremely good-quality sushi.
Address: Miya Plaza 10F, 1-10-22 Sonezakishinchi, Kita Ward, Osaka 530-0002, Japan
Osaka's most talked-about giant onigiri shop, where rice balls roughly twice the convenience-store size are pressed to order with premium Niigata Koshihikari rice and over 1,500 possible fillings. A minute from Nakazaki-cho Station; opens early and closes when the rice runs out.
Address: 1-chōme-5-20 1F, Nakazaki, Kita Ward, Osaka, 530-0016, Japan
The Chibo group's teppanyaki and okonomiyaki counter on the tenth floor of Daimaru Shinsaibashi, cooking on the griddle in front of the seats. Delicious okonomiyaki, very expertly prepared. The place is comfortable, and you can sit at the counter and watch the chef prepare the food in front of you.
Address: Daimaru Shinsaibashi 10F, 1-7-1 Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo Ward, Osaka 542-8501, Japan
On the 40th floor of Conrad Osaka, KURA pairs theatrical teppanyaki with an elegant sushi counter and sweeping skyline views over Nakanoshima. Premium wagyu, fresh seafood and seasonal ingredients are prepared before you - a polished special-occasion choice.
Address: KURA, Conrad Osaka 40F, 3-2-4 Nakanoshima, Kita Ward, Osaka 530-0005, Japan
A late-night Kitashinchi favourite specialising in kasu udon, the Osaka classic topped with crispy fried beef offal (aburakasu) for deep, rich flavour. Open from evening through the early morning - perfect to round off a night out. Closed Sundays.
Address: 1-chōme-7-6 1F, Sonezakishinchi, Kita Ward, Osaka, 530-0002, Japan
A cosy gyoza specialist near Daikokucho Station, Tsutsumu makes its dough from scratch and serves dumplings pan-fried, boiled and steamed. The handmade gyoza are additive- and garlic-free. Open evenings into the early hours - a relaxed spot over plates of dumplings.
Address: 3-chōme-12-23 Motomachi, Naniwa Ward, Osaka, 556-0016, Japan
A Dotonbori institution with over half a century of history, Gyozaoh! is famous for gyoza nearly twice the usual size. The signature fried gyoza is the star, best hot off the griddle in the buzzing heart of Osaka's nightlife district.
Address: 2-chōme-4-14 Dōtonbori, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 542-0071, Japan
A bar on Umeda 2-chome in the Herbis complex, a short walk west of Osaka Station. Very cosy little bar that feels a little hidden away in the mall. They have a great cocktail menu and a comfortable quiet setting.
Address: 2-5-25 Umeda, Kita Ward, Osaka 530-0001, Japan
A small bar on the ground floor of the Nj Building in Dojima, a few streets from Kitashinchi. They only make gin-based cocktails (hence the name). It's a very sophisticated bar, and the staff there are a little pretentious, but it's a great place for a martini.
Address: Nj Building 1F, 1-4-4 Dojima, Kita Ward, Osaka 530-0003, Japan
The Osaka tea salon of Gion Tsujiri, on the eighth floor of Daimaru Shinsaibashi, serves the Uji tea and matcha sweets the Kyoto house is known for. Great place for a shopping break where you can have delicious desserts and excellent quality tea. You can also buy some tea to go as they have a store attached to the restaurant.
Address: Daimaru Shinsaibashi Main Building 8F, 1-7-1 Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo Ward, Osaka 542-8501, Japan
