A proper old Florentine trattoria on Borgo San Iacopo, in the Oltrarno, where the Tesi family have cooked since 1945. The steak comes off wood charcoal, the fritti arrive in great piles, and there are handmade tortellini alongside older Florentine things like brains and little meatballs and, oddly, a curry. It's my favourite restaurant in Florence, with simple, hearty and traditional dishes done exceptionally well. They also have fantastic gelato: one of the best chocolate gelati I have ever had.