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Il Baretto Milano

A Milanese institution on Via della Spiga, in the fashion district, fitted out like an old London club, with dark boiserie, tartan carpet and a double-sided fireplace splitting it into a snug bar room and a larger one facing the greenery. The cooking is classic Milanese: riso al salto, cotoletta, ossobuco, with a wine list running past 350 labels. In good weather, the outside seating is the nicest part of it, a planted dehors built like an English greenhouse with a translucent roof that opens right up. I've been twice now, and both times the food was excellent.